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Stamping Guide

Basic Supplies to get started
Ink pad (dye based is easiest for beginner as it dries quick)
Stamp
Pencil Crayons or Chalks to color image in
Stamp Cleaner & Scrubber
Additional items to purchase
Heat gun, embossing powders, snappy /tidy tray
VersaMark and other pigment ink pads
Watercolor Pencils
Brush Markers

Tips when starting
#1 Start with one or two basic stamps and dye ink pad. Then expand into pigment ink, powder, and more stamps.
#2 Pick basic shapes that you can use over and over on various projects. For example a present stamp can be used on a Christmas card or tag and a Birthday card or tag.
#3 Once you own a few stamps invest in a variety of ink colors.
#4 Sets are great for beginners, especially if they have a verse and a stamp.
#5 Think outside the box. Do not just use the stamp for one purpose. For example a simple heart could be the leaves of a 4 leaf clover.
#6 Alphabets are perfect for scrapbookers!

Types of Stamps
I) Mounted Consists of an image on rubber, foam padding, and a wooden (sometimes acrylic) block.
2) Unmounted The images are on sheets of rubber which you cut apart with scissors and either mount on your own wood block or you use an acrylic block. When cutting apart be sure to make short, straight cuts. Do not try to make a curve and do not undercut (cut an angle). Trim close to image to prevent stamping the edge of the surplus rubber.
Most people own a few blocks in various sizes as you take your unmounted stamp on and off the blocks repeatedly. It is also easy to align alphabet stamps as you can see through the acrylic block to see what you are doing. It takes far less space to store unmounted stamps as opposed to mounted stamps. You can store them in a CD case or in a binder with a sheet protector (the sports card sleeves work great).

Basic Styles of Stamps
1) Outline Designs are the most common type. They create detailed images that can be colored with markers, pencils or chalks
2) Shadows creates an impression that defines an area on your project. Generally they are shapes. Other images or accents can be layered over these shadows.
3) Backgrounds cover a large area (generally 4 x 6 in size). They create a detailed background such as a map, text, or floral. Then other matted images are placed on top. Used a lot by card makers
4) Borders/Frames create a frame image that can be filled in or embossed
5) Solids (Reverse) create a solid impression that requires no additional coloring.

How To Stamp
1) Make sure the stamp is clean.
2) Ink the stamp (using one of the four following methods)
  a) Hold ink pad in your hand and turn stamp over so image is facing up. Then tap ink over stamp (don’t press hard or smash it, just dab it until stamp is evenly covered). This method allows you to see that you are inking and if you want you can ink only part of the stamp
  b) Leave ink pad on the table and gently tap stamp on the pad until it is evenly covered. You don’t have to press the stamp hard.
  c) Use a marker to apply color to the stamp (color each part of the stamp with the appropriate color). Then when done, “huff’ (like when cleaning eye glasses) onto the inked image to re-moisten the ink with your breath before stamping it onto paper.
  d) You can use fabric or acrylic paints. Apply paint to stamp with a foam brush. CLEAN STAMPS IMMEDIATELY. Allow paint to dry for 24 hours.
3) Take the inked stamp and press onto paper. Do not rock it from side to side. Press firmly and then lift straight up. (Make sure you stamp on a steady surface as you do need to apply even pressure). Some say they have to stand to stamp.

Ways To “Color In” Your Stamped Image
1) Watercolor Pencils. Stamp image. It is best to use a water resistant ink (such as Brilliance, Versacolor, VersaMagic or even Staz On) to stamp your image so that the image does not bleed when exposed to water. You could stamp the image in pigment ink and then sprinkle with embossing powder and heat set with a heat gun Then outline a section of the image with a watercolor pencil. Then use a wet watercolor brush or a blender pen to pull color where desired.
2) Just color with pencil crayons, watercolor pencils, or markers
3) Use daubers to pick up ink from the ink pad and sponge it over stamped image. The color duster by Judikins also work well to apply ink
4) Watercolor Paint Set. Dip brush in water and then pick up paint and apply it to your image
5) Chalk it. The color dusters by Judikins work well. To use gently tap the brush directly on the stamp pad or chalk and then apply to your paper using an up and down “dabbing” motion.

Special Techniques
Stamping Off produces a lighter more subdued stamped image ideal for backgrounds. Simply stamp once or twice on scrap paper directly after inking to reduce the ink intensity. Then stamp on desired paper.
Masking Creates an uncluttered layered design by masking stamped images as you layer them. Creates dimension by giving the illusion of stamped images appearing behind other stamped images. For example, it
looks like the leaves are behind the flowers.

How to mask
1) Stamp image on cardstock
2) Stamp image again on a piece of scrap paper (Eclipse tape or post it notes work well)
3) Cut out the scrap paper image, cutting just inside the lines. This is your mask
4) Place mask on top of image
5) Stamp another image over the mask
6) Remove mask to see your layered, interacting image

Using Pearl Ex (creates dazzling pearlescent effect)
1) stamp image with Perfect Medium (or VersaMark) and dust powders over
2) add water to produce luminous paints
3) mix pigments with watercolors, inks, acrylic paints, embossing powders and clay

Stamping on Shrink Plastic
1) Sand shrink plastic lightly with 300 grit sandpaper. This helps the ink stick. You can omit this step if you are using StazOn, Brilliance, or VersaMagic ink pads as they will stamp directly onto “unsanded” shrink plastic
2) stamp your image onto the plastic. You can color the image with colored pencils now or after it has been shrunk. If you choose to color now use the color lightly as the color will intensify as it shrinks. The ink will stay wet until it is heated so be careful not to smudge the ink when coloring
3) cut out and heat in an oven set at a low heat (about 250°) or use your heat gun. Once “shrunk” they are very hard to cut so be sure to cut prior to heating. If you want to punch any holes (for wire or ribbon) do so prior to shrinking. As it begins to shrink move the gun around to shrink evenly. Sometimes it will try to curl and wrap into a ball. If this happens turn off your gun and use a pen tip or something to pull any stuck edges apart.
* Note on some shrink plastics there is a “grain”. If you want to keep images the same make sure you stamp in the same direction or the plastic may shrink differently.
4) once uniformly shrunk, let cool
5) if you did not color in step #2 now you can color using chalk, ink, markers, etc. You can even outline with an embossing pen, sprinkle with powder and heat emboss.

Using Glitter
1) After stamping your image use a glue pen to apply glue to areas where you want glitter
2) Sprinkle on glitter. Pour off excess and put back in jar. You can then put Diamond Glaze or Crystal Lacquer on top to add a dimensional gloss.

Inks

Dye Ink
The most basic rubber stamping ink and probably the easiest to work with. It is the consistency of water and dries instantly on cardstock and shiny paper. It dries more slowly on vellum. Perfect for detailed stamps as it is not as thick as pigment ink. Dye inks can not be used for embossing as it dries before you can sprinkle on the embossing powder. Not recommended for scrapbookers who are concerned about archival quality as it is not water or fade resistant or archival, but it is acid free.
Kaleidacolor Pads by Tsukineko have five colors in one ink pad. The patented sliding palette means that the rainbow pad will stay vibrant and clean project after project.
Using Kaleidacolor Pads
A) Stamping
 1) remove lid
 2) slide ink pads together
 3) stamp your image (if you have a small enough stamp you can pick up an individual color)
clean stamp before re-stamping on a different color to avoid muddying the colors 4) slide pads apart for storage so colors do not bleed into each other
B) Using a Brayer (hard roller with handle)
 1) keep pads apart (for better color blending)
 2) Ink the brayer by rolling it on the ink pad, lift, and roll across inkpad again (be sure
to line up the brayer in the same spot to re-ink) until the brayer is completely inked.
Then roll it on the cardstock. This is a great way to create backgrounds

Pigment Ink
It is thicker than dye ink and, therefore, slow drying. This makes it great for embossing as you have ample time to sprinkle on the powder. Pigment ink colors are vivid and fade resistant. Most pigment inks will not dry on glossy or vellum paper unless you heat emboss them. The VersaMagic and Brilliance ink pads by Tsukineko are exceptions to this rule as the manufacturer says that these pigment ink pads are compatible with vellum and shiny paper. Pigment ink is naturally pH balanced and archival which makes it perfect for scrapbooking.
Brilliance Pads by Tsukineko
It is a special pigment ink pad as it dries on surfaces that traditional pigment inks will not. It dries quickly, but still slow enough to emboss and the beautiful “shimmering” colors even dry on vellum, glossy cardstock, shrink plastic, and mica. Acid free and archival
Versacolor Pads by Tsukineko
A standard pigment ink pad with slow drying ink perfect for embossing. Will not dry on vellum unless it is embossed. Acid free and archival.
VersaMagic Pads by Tsukineko
The first pigment chalk ink that leaves behind a matte opaque finish, especially on dark paper. Dries quickly (can take 3-5 minutes depending on paper weight and texture) and does not leave a chalky smear. Acid free and archival.
VersaMark Pad by Tsukineko
The do-it-all stamp that all stampers must have as it is very versatile. Acid free and archival. Always start with a very clean stamp and clean soon after using VersaMark. The ink looks clear on your stamp, but you will see the image once you stamp it (especially on dark paper).
Ways of using the VersaMark
1) Emboss - Ink stamp with VersaMark, stamp image, sprinkle with powder, and melt with heat gun
2) Chalk it - Ink stamp with VersaMark, stamp image, use sponge dauber to apply chalk (or PearlEx) directly to the ink, and blow off any excess powder
3) Create Watermark (works best on darker papers) - Ink stamp with VersaMark, stamp image onto paper, allow to dry overnight or heat set it You will then see a subtle stamped image just darker than original
paper. Beautiful and elegant
4) Resist - i) Ink stamp with VersaMark (or a clear embossing ink), stamp image, sprinkle on clear embossing powder, apply ink (pick it up from colored ink pad) with a sponge directly to paper over and around embossed image, and finally wipe the embossed image with tissue to remove ink. The image will the color of the cardstock you started with while around the image will be the color of ink you applied over.
- ii) Ink stamp with VersaMark and stamp the image on “glossy” paper. Then ink a brayer  with a dye ink and roll over the stamped image. The image will remain the color of the cardstock and the colored ink will surround it.

Embossing Ink
Designed for embossing, the ink is lightly colored or clear and VERY slow drying. It is not as versatile as other inks and is used strictly for embossing.
Embossing Ink by Judikins
Applicator bottle (2 fl oz) can be used to ink your stamp (without a pad) and then apply embossing powder to the stamped image. It is perfect to apply ink to your project before the first coat of UTEE or Amazing Glaze.

Craft or Permanent Ink
An opaque, quick drying pigment ink with a “kick” as it can be used on a myriad of surfaces. It will dry on surfaces that other inks will not (generally the non-porous and semi-porous surfaces like glass, metal, and plastic). This ink can stain your clothing and hands.
StazOn by Tsukineko
Unique as the ink is not toxic-smelling and it cleans off stamps easily with the special StazOn Solvent Ink Cleaner. With the 3D rage going strong in scrapbooking StazOn ink allows you to stamp all those metal and acrylic embellishments with ease. Acid free and archival.
To prolong the life of an ink pad by Tsukineko keep the plastic inner liner that sits directly on the pad.

Embossing
Create beautiful raised designs by heat embossing with powders or dry embossing with a stylus and template

How to Heat Emboss
1) Stamp image with VersaMark, clear embossing pad or any other pigment ink pad. Use colored embossing powder with clear ink (so the ink will not alter the powder’s color) or use clear embossing powder with
colored pigment ink (so the ink’s color will show through). You can even use a glue pen or embossing pen to write or draw.
2) Working fairly quickly, pour powder onto inked image, making sure that the image is coated completely. The powder will cling to the stamped image.
3) Shake off the excess powder into a tray (snappy tray from Judikins works great) and funnel it back into its container. Take a look at the image to see if the powder is clinging to areas other than the stamped
image. If necessary use a small brush to remove stubborn powder. Return excess powder to container.
4) Heat the stamped image (with a heat gun) until the powder changes to a shiny liquid (it melts) and raises. Keep the heat gun at least 2”- 3” away from paper to prevent overheating of the powder and burning
of the paper. Works best if the gun is held at a 45° angle.
5) Allow embossed image to cool.

Thick Embossing
1) coat surface with embossing ink (either from a pad or bottle from Judikins. Apply directly on paper over stencil, etc.
2) sprinkle on thick embossing powder (UTEE/Amazing Glaze)
3) melt with heat gun
4) while powder is still wet, sprinkle on another coat and remelt
5) repeat process until desired thickness is achieved (usually 3 - 5 coats) and let cool
If you “shock” cool it in your freezer you can create shattered glass look by bonding the image as soon as you pull it from the freezer (it creates fine cracks in thick layer)

How to Dry Emboss
1) Secure a brass template to surface of light source with a small piece of tape
2) Place paper over template (for raised image on the from of card, place paper face down)
3) Use stylus all around edge of open area.
If there is a large open area i.e. heart, press only around the edges not the entire open area. You can run the stylus along the outline of the template to transfer the design onto your paper
4) Optional coloring for the raised image. Reposition template over image on the right side of the cardstock. Apply color with sponge or dauber using ink pads or chalks.
5) Clean Template

Stamp Maintenance
Always clean your stamp with Stamp Cleaner after each use. The special stamp cleaners have conditioners in them to prevent the rubber on the stamp from drying out. Do not use hand soap as it is very drying.

Permanent inks can stain your stamps even after you clean them, but this will not interfere with future stamping projects.

Never immerse your stamps in water.

Stamping Terms

Brayer - rubber stamp tool that has a rubber wheel on a handle used to make backgrounds and other techniques. It is like a paint roller with rubber. There are many techniques possible with brayers. (To see some brayed background techniques, look at this page)

Brush Markers - markers with a long tip. Apply marker color directly on stamps or, color in images.

Crystal Lacquer - Liquid that comes in clear and color. When dried, it enhances images by creating a raised glossy surface.

Cushion - foam cushion part of stamp between the die (piece of rubber) and handle (wood or acrylic block.)

Die - the rubber part of the stamp that you ink to make your impression.

Double Stick Tape - mounting tape that is backed with foam and sticky on both sides.

Dry Embossing - Achieving a raised paper image by laying your paper on top of a stencil that is on a light source and using a stylus to trace the stencil. Dry or pressure embossing needs a stencil, a stylus, and good quality paper. It creates a relief of the design of the stencil. The relief casts subtle shadows revealing the simplicity or intricacy of the design.

Dye Based Ink - water-based ink that is permanent on paper.

Embossing - is any technique which raises or lowers the surface of paper. Paper has been embellished for centuries by hand and eventually by mechanical means.

Embossing ink - ink (pigment ink) from a stamp pad and used with a rubber stamp and embossing powder.

Embossing Powder - powder that comes in a large variety of colors, sprinkle onto wet stamped image and then heat with an embossing gun, causing a raised image.

Foils - colored foils that can be applied to cards using a glue giving you a shiny raised image.

Masking - stamped images that seem to be behind one another.

Mounted stamp - Like the kind of stamp you'd find in a stamp store already mounted to wood or acrylic.

Pigment ink - a wet ink, great for embossing powders! Must be embossed on glossy coat paper or it will not dry.

Stenciling - is adding color to any stencil design made of metal, plastic, or other kind of template. It can be done to paper in addition to dry embossing, or done alone on surfaces such as wood.

Stippling - A stiff big round brush, tap it into ink or paint and tap a design or background onto paper.

Stylus - a stick with blunt rounded ends used to deboss paper.

Thermo Acetate - a clear plastic that can be stamped on or used as a window for shaker cards. May be embossed.

Unmounted stamps - dies that have not been attached to a cushion and wood mount.

UTEE - Ultra Thick Embossing Enamel